I went surfing yesterday. Well to be honest it might be breaking the Trade Description Act to call what I was doing, surfing. A more accurate description would be going into the sea with my board and flapping about like winded seal trying to balance on a lolly pop stick.
I haven’t been for a few weeks and though my performance left a lot to be desired, the only way I am actually going to get better is by going and bloody doing it. And I needed cheering up after the Friday I’d had.
After breakfast in bed, I drove north to South Fistral beach. From the top of the cliff as I struggled into my wetsuit, it looked like the sea was presenting some good beginner waves, fairly strong white rolls of broken water. But in the water, I kept finding myself almost out of my depth with no waves. There were waves further out and waves further in but no matter how hard I tried I keep floating back to the no-mans land of waveless grey water.
It was quite disconcerting. At one point I paddled away from the shore to what I assumed was shallow water further out, but when I turned around the shore seemed remarkably far away and my fear of death kicked in. Must do something about that fear of death thing.
Afterwards I lay in the weak sunshine on the smooth water varnished sand watching the other beginners, no one seemed to be having much luck. The sea was just not having it.
A lone oyster catcher flew from right to left, about 20 feet above me following the water line, just as the sun broke out from the patchy cloud.
What a way to spend your Saturday morning.